Nanluogu Xiang (Alley) is a hutong located in the Jiaodao Kou area on the east side of Beijing's central axis, within the 2 Huan (2rd Ring). It stretches 787 meters in length and is 8 meters wide, running from Gulou Dongdajie (E. St) to Ping'an Dajie (St). Built around the same time as the Yuan Dynasty's capital, it is one of Beijing's oldest neighborhoods, with a history of over 740 years. Key attractions in the area include the Prince Senggelinqin's Mansion and the former residence of Jin Yunpeng and Qi Baishi.
Prince Senggelinqin's Mansion
Enter Nanluogu Xiang (Alley) from the southern entrance and walk east to Chaodou Hutong. Not far from the west entrance of Chaodou Hutong, at No. 77, you will find a plaque marking it as an East District Cultural Heritage site with the inscription “Prince Seng's Mansion.”
The Prince Seng's Mansion was the residence of Senggelinqin during the Qing Dynasty. Originally, it was a large mansion with the front gate located on Chaodou Hutong and the back gate on Ban Chang Hutong, spanning across two alleys. The mansion was divided into three sections: middle, east, and west, each with four courtyards. The east section, in addition to the main courtyard, had an east wing with four more courtyards, forming a large complex. After the Republic of China era, the mansion was gradually sold off by the prince's descendants and divided into smaller courtyards. No. 71 to No. 77 of Chaodou Hutong (odd numbers) and No. 30 to No. 34 of Ban Chang Hutong (even numbers) were all part of the original Wangfu.
At the west entrance of Chaodou Hutong stands the family shrine of Senggelinqin, a large architectural complex. It's rare to find both a shrine and a mansion in the same hutong during the Qing Dynasty. This shrine has since been transformed into the "Lv Songyuan Hotel," a quiet and elegant courtyard-style hotel, which is also quite rare in Beijing.
Jin Yunpeng's Former Residence
If you continue walking north along Nanluogu Xiang (Alley), the third hutong on the east side is Dongmianhua Hutong. Not far from the entrance, to the north, is the internationally renowned Central Academy of Drama. As China's top institution for stage and film acting, its campus is relatively small, covering only part of the area between Dongmianhua Hutong and Beibingmasi Hutong, including the experimental theater. The Central Academy of Drama was originally the former residence of Jin Yunpeng, a prominent military and political figure during the Republic of China, who served as the Minister of the Army and Prime Minister under Duan Qirui. This residence has since fostered generations of Chinese stage and film stars, including Chen Baoguo, Chen Daoming, Jiang Wen, Gong Li, and Zhang Ziyi, all of whom studied and lived here.
Qi Baishi's Former Residence
At No. 13 Yuer Hutong, there once lived one of China's greatest painters — the master of Chinese traditional painting, Qi Baishi. A plaque marking the "Beijing Artists Association" hangs beside the courtyard gate. The yard is spacious and well-preserved, with a large fish tank in the center. The property has not been repainted, retaining the original charm of an old home.
This was originally the private residence of a high-ranking official from the Qing Dynasty's Imperial Household Department. Because the building materials were sourced from the palace and its scale exceeded the usual official residence, it was criticized and the house was later divided and sold off in parts. The courtyard at No. 13 was one of these parts. After the founding of the People's Republic of China, the Ministry of Culture purchased it, and Qi Baishi lived here for a time. However, he soon moved to Xicheng's Kuache Hutong, and thus his former residence is more commonly referred to as the Kuache Hutong residence.
Qi Baishi's former residence is now open to the public. Admission is 5 yuan, and there is a sculpture of Qi Baishi in the yard. The main building has been restored to its original appearance, featuring a painting desk and bedding once used by the artist. Other rooms have exhibits on his life and old personal items, and visitors can also buy souvenirs.