"Willows drunken on spring's misty haze in February's chill,
March's peaks verdant, grasses lush and sprawling at will.
Yet April's season in this mortal realm outshines them all,
A stream of spring waters, its verdant currents enthrall..."
The CCTV Spring Festival Gala hit "Ascending Spring Mountain" struck a chord, its lyrics carrying spring's splendor into countless hearts and minds.
As warmth returns and flowers bloom anew, now is the perfect season for mountain outings to admire nature's colorful views. Let's hike the ancient Western Trail and "ascend spring mountain" together, two birds with one wanderlust.
Attractions
Moshikou - Starting Point of the Ancient Camel Bell Trail
Moshikou marks the beginning of the Jingxi Ancient Road. Dating to the Western Zhou era yet gaining renown in Ming and Qing times, it was formerly dubbed "Moshiku" or Grindstone Pass. The region's abundant western mountain resources necessitated use of camels along the stony paths to transport goods, earning it the romantic moniker "Camel Bell Ancient Road."
Moshikou Street's west entrance was once the essential passage in and out of the Jingxi Ancient Road - the Moshikou Ancient Gorge. In days of yore, Moshiku linked the imperial capital to surrounding Zhili and Shanxi provinces, a vital thoroughfare. The narrow gorge with steep inclines proved treacherous terrain, its very topography a natural defensive barrier. Thus, military strategists established fortifications here across successive dynasties, transforming Moshiku into a formidable stronghold of Western Beijing.
Today's Moshikou has diversified into a vibrant tourism and leisure district, blending bookshops, cafes, bars, eateries, boutique inns, and cultural experiences. Four museum treasures grace its streets - Fahai Temple, The Quaternary Glacial Relics Exhibition Museum of China, the Beijing Eight Imperial Handicrafts Museum (located in the Cheng’en Temple, now under renovation), and Shijingshan District Stone Carving Relics Park. Conveniently, these museums sit within a 10-minute stroll of each other.
Additionally, visitors can explore exhibitions halls such as the Fahai Temple Mural Art Center, Moshikou Historical and Cultural Block (Gudaosicun), and themed bookstores like Jingxi Shuju (Western Beijing Bookstore) and Fandeng Bookstore.
On this romantic spring day, meander the Camel Bell Ancient Road bathed in gentle sunshine. Broaden your horizons at the treasure-trove museums, savor the antiquated courtyard architecture of Gudaosicun, and find solace turning pages at the themed bookstores - slowly savoring spring's ephemeral beauty.
Address: Moshikou Street, Shijingshan District, Beijing
Transportation:
Bus: 336, 358, 396, 489, 597, 876, 932, 941, 961, 972, 977
Bus Rapid Transit (BRT): 135, 148, 489, 527
Subway: Line S1/6 Jinanqiao Station Exit C Northwest, then ride or transfer to Bus 489/527. Line 11 Moshikou Station.
Driving: 4 parking lots service Moshikou Historical and Cultural Block, 2 each at east/west entrances. No vehicles on the pedestrian street 10am-8pm, so please plan accordingly.
The Jingxi Ancient Road
Jingxi Ancient Road was no mere single road, but a network radiating across Mentougou District like capillaries, with the "Xishan Road" as its vital artery and myriad branching paths interwoven.
Amongst these trails were trade routes, military roads, even incense paths. Of them all, the Niujiaoling section stands as one of the best-preserved relics, its horse trail visibly pounded into unforgiving stone - a silent witness to millenia of animal and merchant caravans passing.
The Niujiaoling Pass on the ancient road marked the boundary between Nancun's regional officers and Wangpingkou's patrol authorities in ancient times, a strategic military chokepoint. Also dubbed Ox’s Foot Pass, it bears the legacy as the "First Pass on the Jingxi Ancient Road."
Over 300 distinct hoof prints dimple the pass grounds here, some nearly 30cm deep - the largest concentration of such markings remaining on the ancient road. As the westernmost military bastion, this strategic strongpoint saw endless horse caravans traversing its stone paths across centuries - armies marching to war, merchant convoys trading wares, pilgrims seeking mountainside shrines. A thousand years inscribed one plodding step after another, carving unique whorls and hollows that chronicle an era's hardships and glories.
Nestled along the road lies Jiuyuan Village, its homes hugging the mountainside in an ageless vision. Stone bridges arc over rippling streams, blue tile roofs and rustic grey brick exuding rural charm - an idyllic countryside tableau. It was here the celebrated writer Ma Zhiyuan made his humble abode.
Approaching the residence, one is greeted by a stone footbridge arching over gurgling waters, the courtyard compound encircled by gnarled trees breathing ancient airs. Within, exhibitions showcase calligraphy masterworks, clay sculptures, and local cultural relics.
Each March and April, waves of peach and apricot blossoms sweep over the mountainsides flanking the Jingxi ancient road in brilliant blooms. From lofty peaks, one can survey the full panorama - distant ridges fading into misty blues, valleys quilted in vivid countryside tapestries. The serpentine Yongding River winds like a languid dragon towards the hazy horizon. Mountain and river, a symbiotic dance - emerald waters embracing vermillion ridges, a celestial vista.
Address: Shuiyuzui Village, Miaofengshan Town, Mentougou District, Beijing
Transportation:
Driving:
Fushi Lu (Rd) (Lianchi Lu (Rd)) – Shidan Lu (Rd) – Longjiazhuang – Shuiyuzui Village
Fushi Lu(Rd) (Lianchi Lu (Rd)) – Shidan Lu (Rd) – Yexiqiaotou – Shuiyuzui Village
6th Ring Road West – Junzhuang Exit – Junwen Lu (Rd) – National Highway 109 – Shidan Lu (Rd) – Lengjiazhuang - Shuiyuzui Village
By Bus: 890, 929, 892 to Longjiazhuang Station, then walk 500m south across Shuiyuzui Bridge
Miaofeng Mountain
A soaring peak in the mighty Taihang Mountains, Miaofeng Mountain's 1,291m summit is the first peak of Xiaoxishan in western Beijing as their closest 1,000m aerie.
The scenic area spans vast, a verdant expanse of lush forests cloaking deep, secluded valleys and crystalline waters. Towering peaks jut skyward in craggy grandeur, their slopes wreathed in ancient pines and cypresses, strange rock formations and tranquil hollows composing a breathtaking panorama.
Owing to its lofty altitude, the temperatures around Miaofeng Mountain typically run around 10°C cooler than the sweltering capital below, delaying spring's awakening by a fortnight or more. As the city's blossoms begin to fade, the mountain's slopes explode in rolling waves of peach and apricot blooms ascending layer by layer, petals densely massing on naked branches until entire valleys pool in pale oceans of floral fragrance.
Following the serpentine mountain roads upwards is to wander an ephemeral sea of living blossoms. Atop the Golden Summit of Miaofeng Mountain, one cannot help but echo the lament - "The fullness of spring's floral beauty exhausted in the realms of men, as temples' peach trees now burst forth in opulent blooms."
Beyond the draws of mountain climbing and blossom viewing, Miaofeng Mountain reserves another springtime delight - its vibrant traditional miaohui (temple fairs). Dating to the Ming era over 400 years ago, miaohui held in the Miaofeng Mountain unfurls from the 1st to 15th days of lunar April. During these fairs, over 100 folk flower exhibitions mass at the mountain to burn incense to its peaks, repay the slopes through performing arts, and distribute porridge, tea, and steamed bread to all. However, whether 2024's miaohui will proceed remains undetermined.
Address: Jiangou Village, Miaofengshan Town, Mentougou District, Beijing
Transportation:
Note: Miaofeng Mountain Scenic Area is now temporarily closed and preparations are underway to reopen.
Driving: (Use the map apps) Navigate to Jinding Miaofeng Mountain
By Bus: Route M5 (Pingguoyuan - Jiangou Village)
Departures from Pingguoyuan: 9:30am, 2pm, 6pm
Departures from Jiangou Village: 6:10am, 11am, 4pm
Cuisine Delights
Fahai Temple Zhagao (fried cake)
At the "Fahai Temple Zhagao King" purveyors skirting the temple's base, these crispy spirals have become a signature Moshikou snack.
Two varieties tempt - pillowy white rice twists with a soft, chewy texture, and golden corn versions boasting a rich, nutty al dente bite. A burnished, crackling crust yields to plump ribbons of stretchy, non-gluey glutinous rice enveloping a granular sweet bean paste filling. Crisp without, tender within, sweetened yet not cloying - a nostalgic childhood flavor for many Shijingshan natives.
Hui Town Kitchen
Here amidst luxurious private dining rooms and a spacious, sunlit banquet hall awaits a secluded courtyard oasis accompanied by birdsong, floral perfumes and gurgling streams. Welcome to Hui Town Kitchen at 223 Moshikou Street.
The courtyard preserves an antiquated traditional aesthetic, its garden scenery channeling a modernized Chinese garden ambiance to create Moshikou's "characteristic scenic restaurant." Signature star dishes like stinky mandarin fish, award-winning red-braised pork belly, bamboo fungus and black fungus chicken soup...a panoply of celebrated Anhui cuisine specialties await sampling. Whether dining, sipping tea, touring, or strolling with family, it's an experience steeped in life's finer pleasures.
Miaofeng Mountain Gezhi Snack (a deep-fried crispy flour snack)
The ingredients for gezhi snack originate from the highland's assorted grains and beans. In days past, Mentougou residents would finely process leftover grains into New Year's nibbles and ingredients for hosting guests' feasts.
Gezhi's traditional preparation is an elaborate affair spanning over ten distinct processes. First, the mishmash of beans is sorted, washed and semi-dried, then roughly crushed in a large stone mill. After soaking to soften, they undergo three successive grindings in a Beijing Western watermill reducing them to a fine batter. This is then hand-flattened onto the gezhi pan and sliced into segments for low-temperature drying.
To eat, simply pan-fry the gezhi pieces in a touch of oil until achieving a deep golden crisp. Gezhi can also grace dishes from candied varieties to seafood blends and an "eight treasure" medley - a versatile delicacy.
Horse Caravan Banquet
When wandering Jixing Ancient Road, one must sample the authentic horse caravan banquet, immersing yourself in this storied culinary heritage. After grueling long-distance caravanning, weary men and beasts could finally pause for respite by the Yongding River's banks.
The distinctly local horse caravan banquet preserves the customs of those ancient traveling merchants - quaffing potent rice wines from deep bowls, gorging heartily on hunks of roasted meats. These feasts spotlight cold appetizer platters and richly stewed dishes paired with vegetable-stuffed dumplings, rustic home-baked breads, and other humble staple fare.
Lodging
Jing No. 199
Tucked discreetly amidst Moshikou's bustling streets lies Jing No. 199, a two-compound Beijing Western-style quadrangle that preserves its traditional architecture while infusing contemporary metropolitan panache.
The trendsetting boutique inn's interior courtyard houses a courtyard-style bar seamlessly blending coffee service, afternoon tea, and curated libations. With myriad beverages on offer and bartenders adeptly trained in craft mixology, one can casually indulge in a signature cocktail while bathed in moonlight, watching clouds languidly drift as tranquil courtyard serenity envelops.
The secluded rear compound unveils an independent luxury boutique inn, its 5 guest rooms each uniquely themed and outfitted with plush, star-quality bedding of sumptuous comfort and immaculate tidiness.
Address: 199 Moshikou Street, Shijingshan District, Beijing
Gudao Shanju (Ancient Trail Mountain Lodgings)
At the entrance to Jingxi Ancient Road Scenic Area in Miaofengshan Town lies Gudao Shanju, an upscale boutique inn meticulously renovated from rustic village dwellings to channel French countryside charm. The exterior evokes an aged village ambiance dense with antiquity, while the interior decor adopts a French country garden aesthetic with delicate detailing at every turn.
Gudao Shanju comprises 3 distinct courtyard compounds, the southerly and northerly accommodating 10 guest suites housing 18-20 guests. Amenities include a tea lounge, wine bar, fully-equipped kitchen, viewing pavilions, Chinese restaurant, 30-person meeting room, and self-service dining room - affording urban travelers a taste of sumptuous resort-caliber hospitality within this rural idyll.
Address: Jingxi Ancient Road Scenic Area Entrance, Mentougou District, Beijing
Miaofeng Shanju (Miaofeng Mountain Lodgings)
Miaofeng Shanju graces the ranks three-star "Mentougou Yard", comprising twin compounds known as Miaofeng Shanju proper and Qingchun Yard.
The Miaofeng Shanju yard hugs the mountainside, its elevation affording panoramic vistas across the peaks. Among its amenities are a 400sqm natural mountain leisure area, children's playground, and scenic water features.
Its overall decor channels a new Chinese aesthetic, each room uniquely designed to frame the surrounding mountain scenery through lavish window surrounds.
The compact 300sqm courtyard contains 6 guest suites - 2 full apartments and 4 standard rooms in varied configurations to accommodate 12-15 lodgers.
Qingchun Yard offers 2 standard rooms for 4 guests, complemented by an open-air hot spring pool beckoning guests to bathe while drinking in the inspiring mountain panorama. An observation deck also provides sweeping vistas over picturesque Jiangou Village.
Address: Jiangou Village, Miaofengshan Town, Mentougou District, Beijing
Photo credits: Moshikou, Shijingshan Tourism, Mentougou Tourism, Beijing Municipal Bureau of Agriculture and Rural Affairs, Miaofeng Mountain, Beijing International Mountain Walking Festival, Xiaohongshu account @王崽崽
