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Exploring old hutongs: visiting the hidden library in the cinema

2024-05-14

The Honglou Public Library was originally the Honglou Cinema built in the 1930s. The Honglou Cinema once achieved remarkable success: it was the first widescreen 3D cinema in Beijing, the first “accessible cinema” in Beijing, and one of the best cinemas in Beijing for the premiere of the latest Chinese and foreign films.

As times developed, traditional cinemas no longer met the audience's viewing needs. In 2012, the Honglou Cinema ceased operations. In 2018, it re-emerged as a public library and reopened in 2019. Along with the overall improvement and renovation of Xianmen Street, the exterior of the Honglou Public Library also regained its red color.

The Honglou Public Library is a unique reading space that combines a library, public library, and physical bookstore. It is the first shared library in China, with three functional areas including a book collection area, reading area, and research area. The public can enjoy free access to read books in this multifunctional space.

Nearby Attractions

Zhuanta Hutong

Zhuanta Hutong is located on Xisi South Street and dates back to Yuan Dynasty. In Yuan Dynasty, the play “A Scholar Boiled the Sea” by Li Haogu mentioned, “Go to the front gate of the shop at the Yangshi corner in Zhuanta Hutong to find me.” How many hutongs in Beijing's history? Folk slang once expressed that there were many small hutongs. If we trace back to the Yuan Dynasty, the only known hutong is Zhuanta Hutong, which has kept its name for over 700 years. Therefore, Mr. Luo Zhewen referred to it as the “root of Beijing hutongs”.

At the eastern entrance of Zhuanta Hutong stands the Wansong Elderly Tower, from which Zhuanta Hutong derives its name. The Wansong Elderly Tower was originally built during the Yuan Dynasty in an octagonal seven-tiered style with a compact eave. In the 18th year of the Qianlong era in Qing Dynasty (1753), it was reconstructed and heightened to nine tiers. The tower was later renovated in 1927 through fundraising efforts led by Ye Gongchuo. Standing at 16 meters tall, the tower features an octagonal nine-tiered compact eave style, encompassing the original Yuan Dynasty tower within. With its simple and elegant design, intricate craftsmanship, the Wansong Elderly Tower is the only compact eave-style brick tower in the urban area of Beijing.

Under the Wansong Elderly Tower in Zhuanta Hutong, there is a bookstore called Zhengyang Bookstore, which is the only specialty bookstore in Beijing that exclusively sells Beijing literature. Zhengyang Bookstore is a result of the revitalization of cultural heritage buildings in Beijing and now become an important cultural hub to readers and society. It become a home for both Chinese and foreign readers who love Beijing's history and culture.

In July 1923, Lu Xun and his wife Zhu An moved to No. 61 Zhuanta Hutong. They resided in this small courtyard until May 1924 when they moved to a new residence. Despite the harsh conditions of the house, Lu Xun’s relentless dedication to writing was not hindered. During his nine-month stay in Zhuanta Hutong, he worked on proofreading The Collected Works of Ji Kang compiled the second volume of A Brief History of Traditional Chinese Novels, and created works such as At the Tavern, A Happy Family, and Soap.

Renowned for his mastery in chapter-based novels, Zhang Henshui created works such as The Diamond Dust Aristocratic Family, An Unofficial History of Chunming, The Fates of a Marriage of Tears and Laughter, and Four Northeastern Company Commanders, which reflected a wide range of themes of that time. After the victory of the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression, Zhang Henshui returned to Beijing and served as the manager of the Xinmin Daily and editor-in-chief of the supplement Beihai. Later, he purchased a small quadrangle courtyard in Zhuanta Hutong, with the house number 43. From then until the spring of 1967, when he completed his final journey in life, Zhang Henshui lived in this house. 

Address: Xisi South Street, Xicheng District, Beijing.

Huatian Yanji Restaurant (Xisi Main Shop)

Huatian Yanji Restaurant, founded in 1943, is a Beijing restaurant specializing in Korean cold noodles. Originally located at the west entrance of Shoupa Hutong near Xidan, it was known as “Xinsheng Cold Noodle Restaurant.” After the public-private partnership in 1956, the restaurant moved to Shifuma Street inside Xuanwumen, and in 1963, it relocated to No. 181 Xisi North Street. The cold noodles served at the restaurant are highly popular, especially during the summer when it is always packed with customers. In addition to cold noodles, Yanji Restaurant also offers Korean specialties such as spicy beef, walleye pollack, fried beef, and crispy fried fish.

Address: No. 181 Xisi North Street, Xicheng District, Beijing.

PRIMAKER CAFE

PRIMAKER CAFE is located at No. 5 Xiaotangfang Hutong, with a small number “5” on the black iron gate. After ringing the doorbell, someone will come to open the door.

This is a space composed of an architectural design studio, a café, and a guesthouse. The history of the house can be traced back to the Qing Dynasty, and the entire building exudes a strong sense of design. From the black cobblestone at the entrance to the high ceilings and comfortable natural lighting throughout the house, it creates a comfortable atmosphere.

The café on the ground floor is not large, with only four tables, but the bookshelf is quite eye-catching. Upon closer inspection, it is filled with professional books and magazines related to architecture, urban planning, and design. There are also books on revitalizing old houses and landscaping, providing a wealth of knowledge.

The variety of food in the shop is not extensive. Apart from coffee, the Pound Cake is worth a try. A lemon-flavored cake is also refreshing for the summer.

Address: No. 5 Xiaotangfang Hutong, Xicheng District, Beijing City.

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