There's an old saying: "To see underground relics, visit Shaanxi; to see above-ground relics, explore Shanxi." The majority of ancient buildings in China that date back to the Yuan Dynasty or earlier can be found in Shanxi province. Among the various regions of Shanxi, the southeastern part known as Jindongnan stands out, offering a remarkable abundance of ancient architecture. What's particularly impressive is the prevalence of wooden structures of the Song and Jin Dynasties, a rarity elsewhere. As you drive through the region's winding roads, you might come across a small temple in a village, with a history that spans over a thousand years.
Changzhi, the largest city in Jindongnan, is a veritable open-air museum of ancient architectural art within China's historical lineage. The sheer quantity, longevity, and cultural significance of ancient buildings in Changzhi are beyond imagination. At present, there are more than 3,500 ancient buildings scattered across 3,400 administrative villages. Nearly every village boasts its own ancient structure, making this a unique phenomenon in the entire country. These ancient buildings span seven dynasties: Tang, Five Dynasties, Song, Jin, Yuan, Ming, and Qing, forming a comprehensive display of the evolution of traditional Chinese wooden architecture over the course of nearly a millennium. There are 162 existing ancient wooden structures before the Yuan Dynasty, accounting for 28% of the country's ancient wooden structures before the Yuan and 33% of Shanxi Province, ranking first in the country's prefecture-level cities, and there are many treasures and isolated cases. This makes Changzhi an invaluable living historical record and sets it apart as the "Chinese Museum of Ancient Architectural Art."
Guanyin Temple
Guanyin Temple was established in the 10th year of the Ming Dynasty's Wanli era (1582 AD). It is a temple primarily dedicated to Guanyin, incorporating elements of Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism, making it the sole existing well-preserved Ming-era suspended sculpture that combines these three teachings. In 2001, it was declared one of China's fifth batch of National Key Cultural Relics Protection Units. The temple houses an ancient cypress tree that has stood for over a thousand years, still thriving and lush. Guanyin Temple is particularly renowned for its astonishing Ming-era suspended sculptures. The central Guanyin Hall is an original structure, while the other buildings were constructed during the Qing Dynasty. A notable feature is the gilded plaque on the lintel, dating to the 11th year of the Ming Wanli era, which reads "Guanyin Temple," an exceedingly rare and precious relic.
Suspended sculptures involve using architectural walls or wooden components as support, inserting wooden or iron wedges into pre-built wooden frames to create a skeletal structure that is later bound with straw ropes and transformed into colorful clay sculptures. Suspended sculptures typically comprise multiple overlapping layers, resulting in an ornate and magnificent aesthetic.
Guanyin Temple's suspended sculptures are masterpieces of ancient Chinese sculptural art. Originally, there were over eight hundred clay suspended sculptures, and today, more than five hundred remain. These sculptures vary in size from approximately 2 meters to as small as 2 centimeters. They encompass a diverse array of mythical and divine figures, including beloved deities such as Guan Gong, Arhats, the Jade Emperor, the Eight Immortals, Confucius's seventy-two disciples, and many more. In the central hall, prominent statues of Guanyin, Wenshu, and Puxian take center stage beneath an intricate gabled roof. Atop Guanyin's head is a representation of the heavenly realm, complete with auspicious clouds and pavilions. Moving upwards, you'll find statues of Shakyamuni Buddha, Laozi, and Confucius, the founders of Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism, seated harmoniously together. Shakyamuni Buddha sits in the "Speaking Dharma" pose, with his left hand horizontally placed on his raised left foot and his right hand forming a circular gesture. Laozi, dressed as a Taoist sage, appears as if he's delivering a discourse, while Confucius, donned in Confucian robes, sits upright while instructing his numerous disciples. Surrounding them are eighteen Arhats, twenty-four celestial deities, and twelve Bodhisattvas mounted on mythical creatures like kirins, lions, and elephants. Additionally, there are depictions of the Four Heavenly Kings, Vajra warriors, and Dishi, each meticulously sculpted to convey diverse and lifelike expressions. On the fourth level above the twelve Bodhisattvas, there are depictions of Taoist figures like the Jade Emperor and the Eight Immortals on the south wall, and Confucian figures, the seventy-two disciples of Confucius, on the north wall.
This extensive collection of suspended sculptures leaves all visitors who enter the temple in awe.
The Minghui Master Pagoda
The Minghui Master Pagoda, originally a structure within the Haihui Monastery, is the sole survivor of the temple complex, nestled in the picturesque village of Hongni, approximately 25.5 kilometers east of Pingshun County in Changzhi, Shanxi Province.
Standing at a height of about 6 meters, this square-shaped pagoda features a base constructed with blue stones, towering at around 1.5 meters. The pagoda consists of a single eave and four supporting pillars, with an entrance on the southern side. Its hollow interior is adorned with a tiled roof, while at its center, there's an intricately carved depiction of mountain flora and banana leaves, adding a graceful touch. The pagoda's uppermost part exhibits well-preserved roof ridges and various decorative elements, such as ornamental discs, lotus flowers, and precious jewels. What sets this pagoda apart is the exquisite carvings of Vajra deities on either side of the entrance. The depictions of musicians, entertaining with music and dance, add a lively and vivid dimension to the pagoda's ornamentation. Additionally, intricate vine patterns are etched along the sides.
In 1965, the Minghui Master Pagoda was designated as one of the first key cultural heritage protection units in Shanxi Province by the People's Government of Shanxi. On June 25, 2001, it was further recognized as one of the fifth batch of nationally significant cultural heritage protection units by the State Council of the People's Republic of China.
The Minghui Master Pagoda, with its graceful form, balanced proportions, and refined craftsmanship, is an essential source for studying the late Tang and Five Dynasties' stone carving art and the history of music.
Lu'an City-God Temple
Situated in the Miaodao alley of Da Bei Street in Changzhi, Shanxi Province, the Lu'an City-God Temple, founded during the Yuan Dynasty, stands as one of the most significant and well-preserved temple complexes dedicated to the City God in China. Covering an area of 12,229 square meters and featuring a total floor space of 5,175.03 square meters, this temple holds a rich historical legacy.
Lu'an City-God Temple, facing north to south, is organized around a central axis stretching 408 meters from south to north. The temple's architectural ensemble follows a sequence that includes the Six-Dragon Wall, Hong Gate, Wooden Building, Stone Building, the Mountain Gate, the Double Pavilion (Xuanjian Building), the Opera Stage, the Offering Pavilion, the City-God Hall, the Sleeping Quarters, along with side halls, corridors, and other structures.
In recognition of its historical and architectural significance, the temple was included in the fifth batch of national key cultural heritage protection units by the State Council of China on June 25, 2001.
A highlight of the temple is the traditional annual temple fair held on the 15th day of the fourth lunar month, which centers on the veneration of the City God, an ancient deity believed to protect cities and their inhabitants. On this special occasion, devotees offer tributes and burn incense in the hope of securing the City-God's blessings. To honor the deity, lively performances, including traditional opera, are staged to entertain the City God. As the event draws crowds, it naturally attracts merchants and peddlers who set up stalls, creating a bustling atmosphere.
Welcome to Changzhi, you can embark on a journey to discover the traces of civilization, the echoes of a rich history, and the stories of transformation conveyed through ancient architectural wonders. Beyond Lu'an City-God Temple, there's a trove of hidden gems in Changzhi's architectural heritage. These include the rare Tang Dynasty wooden structures at Tiantai Temple in Pingshun County, the unique Five Dynasties suspended mountain-style wooden architecture at Longmen Temple, the remarkable Five Dynasties mural art at Dayun Temple, and the picturesque Jindeng Temple perched on the slopes of the Taihang Mountain. Not to forget the exquisite Song Dynasty painted sculptures like the 12 Bodhisattva Statues in Faxing Temple and the 18 Arhat Statues in Chongqing Temple. These are celebrated by experts as the "Crown of Song Sculpture" and the "Unparalleled Marvel of Eastern Polychrome Sculpture."
