A Bite of Authentic Beijing Cuisine, and a Glimpse of Local Customs of Beijing

2020-04-27

Touring around Beijing, do not forget to taste authentic Beijing cuisine. If you are a fan of the barbecue, do not miss Kao Rou Ji and Kao Rou Wan. Let’s see if you can tell the differences between them. Beijing Roast Duck is a world-famous cuisine, and Quanjude or Bian Yi Fang is usually the must-visit restaurants for visitors. The “San Bu Nian” of Tong He Ju is a well-known dish which you’ll definitely regret if you miss it. Chaogan (stir-fried liver) of Tian Xing Ju, described as “eating garlic without seeing garlic”, is always loved by old Beijingers. After a rich meal, it is a good choice for you to drink a cup of tea in a teahouse to relieve the feeling of grease. The jasmine tea of Wuyutai Tea boasts its long-lasting fragrance and the rich flavor with aftertaste. It is definitely worth a try. If you want to watch a play, you can also go to Laoshe Teahouse, a place which will not let you down!

The Beijing barbecue has a long history. It has a unique flavor and use particular materials and exquisite skills. It has very high status in the cooking history of Beijing, and even China. It started from the royal court of Ming Dynasty, and at that time, it was called as “eating grilled mutton”. Then it spread to the folks and became popular among common people. Barbecue is a local dish with unique taste in Beijing. When making the barbecue, the sliced beef and mutton are marinated at first. After that, they are put on a special round iron plate (which is also called as “Zhizi”) for roasting. Barbecue mainly includes roast mutton of “Kao Rou Ji” and roast beef of “Kao Rou Wan”, of which the making processes represent the top level of Beijing barbecue.

Kao Rou Ji

“Kao Rou Ji” was founded in the 28th year of Emperor Daoguang’s reign (1848 AD). In the Qing Dynasty, the lotus market of Shichahai was opened on the first day of the fifth lunar month every year. Ji Decai, the founder of the restaurant, would go to the Yinding Bridge with a cart and set up a barbecue stand to sell roast mutton from mid-July to the ninth day of September. The smell of his barbecue attracted many tourists. His business was really prosperous. After that, the roasting skills of his family, being passed down through many generations, became mature. The family gradually changed from a peddler to a shopkeeper, and the brand “Kao Rou Ji” was established beside the Yinding Bridge. After 1956, “Kao Rou Ji” developed faster and became more popular. Since the establishment, “Kao Rou Ji” has never left the Shichahai. It has become a famous and unique restaurant with characteristics of the region. Eating meat and enjoying the view, the tourists are always cheerful. The making skills and management mode of “Kao Rou Ji”, which show the food culture and folk culture in Beijing, have great research value.

“Huaizhong baoyue” is one of the restaurant’s eight flavors which have been inherited. In the past, the spirit of Kao Rou Ji was self-roasting and Wuchi, a graceless-style barbeque. “Wuchi” refers to the posture and the style of a self-roasting barbeque. It shows the passion of the real men who truly enjoy the taste of a barbecue. Generally speaking, when enjoying a barbecue, real men have to take a bar about two chi (equal to 1/3 meter) long made from Abelia biflora. Standing next to the Zhizi, the iron plate, with one foot on the bench, they put the meat marinated by the staff on Zhizi surrounded by the smoke and turned the meat frequently to make it well roasted. “Self-roasting” means that one needs to take the ingredients and control the fire by himself, giving full expression of openness and directness.

What does the “eight flavors” of the barbecue means”? It means the barbeque can be “tough, tender, burnt, scorched, sweet, salty, spicy and Huaizhong Baoyue”. “Huaizhong baoyue” means adding the egg fluid, which has the shape of the moon after being half-cooked, to the meat. It seems easy, but the use of egg liquid allows the meat to be tenderer and tastier. As for Wuchi, when the meat is medium rare, the barbecue makers will use the chopsticks made from Abelia biflora to build a small nest in the meat, which is low at the middle and high around. Then, they add the egg fluid into the nest to form the shape of the moon. When the meat is close being cooked, they mix the half-cooked egg liquid fully into it. In this way, a unique taste is formed. The entire process is a real test of the barbecue makers’ skills.

Store: Kao Rou Ji (Houhai)

Tel.: 010-64042554

Address: No.14, Qianhai Dongyan Hutong, Di’anmenwai Street, Xicheng District, Beijing (near Yinding Bridge)

Kao Rou Wan

“Kao Rou Wan” opened in the 25th year of Emperor Kangxi’s reign (1686 AD). The owner was a Hui person with the surname of Wan, from Dachang Hui Autonomous County in the east of Beijing. His family sold charcoal and roast beef in carts at the very beginning. After the struggle of three generations, they finally purchased property around Xuanwumen and established a store. The brand was “Kao Rou Wan Ji”, which was changed to “Kao Rou Wan” later. For over three hundred years, the roast beef of “Kao Rou Wan” has always been popular. It is deeply rooted in Beijing folks and well connected with the local customs. It has been passed down to nowadays and has become a crucial representative of the culture and skills of Beijing cuisine.

In Kao Rou Wan, the selection of ingredients is very strict. The meat has to be the tenderest part such as rib eye, round steak and sirloin tip from 4- to 5-year-old calf cows or dairy cattle weighing more than 300 pounds. The tendons should also be removed. The meat-cutting skill is elaborate. A pointed steel knife about one chi long is used to cut the meat into uniform slices of about 6mm by pushing and pulling. Zhizi, Kao Rou Wan’s treasure, is also very unusual. It is said that it has been used for over 100 years.

Store: Kao Rou Wan Restaurant (Nanlishi Road)

Tel.: 010-68028180

Address: No.58, Nanlishi Road, Xicheng District, Beijing

Sha Guo Ju

Sha Guo Ju, founded in the sixth year of Emperor Qianlong’s reign (1741 AD), is the largest China’s time-honored brand specializing in the casserole dish in Beijing now. With the unique methods of roasting, stewing and boiling, it puts the essence of pork in one very feast. It has won the praise “Famous in Beijing for three hundred years and unrivaled in taste of Bairou in North China”.

Sha Guo Ju had the name “He Shun Ju” at first. The restaurant used a casserole of extreme size which was said to be made during the Ming Dynasty to boil the best pork. The meat, which was fat but not greasy, was a great delicacy. As time went by, people use the name “Sha Guo Ju” to replace the original name. After the operation of several generations, the dishes of Sha Guo Ju formed their characteristics. They are not only delicate like the dishes of royal palace, but also simple like the cuisine of Beijing folks. They have become the representative of Beijing’s official cuisine.

The Bairou cooked in casserole can be called “the best dish in Beijing”. In the Qing Dynasty, it even became a delicacy on the table of Emperor Qianlong and Empress Dowager Cixi. It is said that Emperor Qianlong wrote some words of praise in Sha Guo Ju. When Sha Guo Ju was established, many civil officials and military officers came for meat. “Bairou, the best dish” was spread to the palace and the ears of Emperor Qianlong. One day, the Emperor, in a good mood, called a cooker of Sha Guo Ju to the palace. As the mood of Emperor didn’t disappear after the meal, he wrote the words down, “This is a delicacy with the best taste”. Since that, Sha Guo Ju became even more famous. During Jiaqing’s reign, Sha Guo Ju was unprecedentedly prosperous, so there was the saying, “If you want to eat Bairou in Gangwashi, it will be too late to go after sunrise.” There was also a two-part allegorical saying among the folks, “The signboard of Sha Guo Ju — won’t wait until afternoon.” Today, the casserole dishes become more popular, and the century-old boiled Bairou and the words of praise by Emperor Qianlong have become the good stories of Sha Guo Ju that will be recorded in the history.

Store: Sha Guo Ju (Xisi)

Tel.: 010-66021126

Address: No.60, Xisi South Street, Xicheng District, Beijing

Tong He Ju

Tong He Ju, a China’s time-honored brand, was founded in the second year of Emperor Daoguang’s reign (1822 AD). It was originally located at Xisi Pailou of the old capital. The name “Tong He Ju” was taken from a Chinese phrase “Tong Huai He Yue”, which means that people gather and enjoy the atmosphere of happiness together. The board was autographed by Pujie, the brother of the last Emperor. “Tong He Ju”, a well-known time-honored brand in China, is subordinate to Huatian Catering Group Company. As the earliest restaurant of Shandong cuisine, it is known for cooking aquatic and sea food with good skills such as quick-frying, stir-frying, braising, frying and stewing. The dishes highlight the characteristics of being cool, fresh, tender and crisp. The “San Bu Nian”, the dishes of Zaoliu (stewing in fermented rice sauce) series and grilling steamed bread all have become the top three delicacies of Tong He Ju.

Tong He Ju, decorated by traditional woodcarving patterns of skilled craftsmen, has a quaint and elegant environment. The shining western chandelier adds the magnificence of the restaurant. The decorations and the display of the tableware show the atmosphere of the restaurant with a Chinese style. The restaurant is exposed to the sunlight, which sprinkles through leaves and the window, and the charming view of Shichahai can also be seen. Tong He Ju used to be a good place in Beijing where writers and a couple of friends got together. This tradition is passed down and has left many beautiful memories for Beijingers. The Shandong cuisine is authentic, and the stir-fry dish is elaborately cooked. You can drink wine, taste tea and have a meal in a romantic and warm environment while watching the charming view of Shichahai.

Tong He Ju is famous for its variety of dishes, with over 300 on the menu. “San Bu Nian” is the signature dish. This is also the very dish that made Tong He Ju famous. The dish is a must-order one.

Store: Tong He Ju Restaurant (Shichahai)

Tel.: 010-83289699

Address: Inside Hehua Market, No.51-2, Di’anmen West Street, Xicheng District, Beijing

Bian Yi Fang

Bian Yi Fang, China’s time-honored brand, is a famous restaurant in Beijing. It was founded in the 14th year of Emperor Yongle’s reign (1416 AD). “An ancient capital of eight hundred years, and a Menlu (a closed stove make roast duck) of six hundred years.” The name “Bian Yi Fang” contains the idea of “offering convenience to people, and making harmonious homes”. It has formed the characteristics of dishes based on Shandong cuisine and headed by roast duck in Menlu. Crispy outside and tender inside, the roast duck is a delicacy which is widely praised. As the fire is not visible in making of roast duck in Menlu, it is also called “green roast duck” by modern people.

A ground stove is used to make roast duck in Menlu. Before the duck gets roasted, the oven is heated to a suitable temperature using the charcoal made from sorghum bars. A blind fire is used in Menlu, so it requires good skills. The man in charge of the stove must take good control of the temperature inside. Now Bian Yi Fang has stopped using straw and has started to use the electric Menlu to make roast duck. Duck roasted in Menlu has a crispy skin and tender meat, fat but not greasy. It overcomes the shortcoming of traditional Menlu, the heavy smoke, while remaining the features of roast duck in Menlu, being tender and juicy.

Store: Bian Yi Fang (Xingfu Street)

Tel.: 010-67116545

Address: No.36, Xingfu Street, Dongcheng District, Beijing

Quanjude

Founded in 1864, China’s time-honored brand “Quanjude” has gained great development after the efforts of several generations. “You are not a real man until you reach the Great Wall; you will regret if you don’t eat Quanjude’s roast duck.” For over a hundred years, after continuous innovation and development, Quanjude has formed a unique system of dishes. The system, of which the main dish is Quanjude’s roast duck, includes the “feast of whole duck” and more than 400 dishes. It is loved by heads of state, government officials, people from all walks of life and tourists at home and abroad, praised as “the best dish of China”.

Quanjude (Qianmen) is the first store of this time-honored brand. The development of the century-old brand is shown by the “old facade wall” and other historical relics, which are kept well in this store. Today, the store has become the best choice for tourists from all over the world to experience the culture of Chinese food.

As the tradition of Beijing Roast Duck, a lotus leaf pancake can only be used to roll the spring onion and roast duck together, and cucumber sticks are used to relieve the feeling of grease. Take one cucumber stick after having one or two rolls of Beijing Roast Duck, and the greasy feeling in the mouth will be decreased immediately. The rules are made not only in how to eat roast duck, but also in how to eat the pancake of roast duck. Now, some eaters think that a thinner lotus leaf pancake is the best. However, it lacks the fragrance of wheat if that is too thin. A lotus leaf pancake is made from all-purpose flour. The ratio of hot water to cold water stands at 3:7. On the baked pancake, some yellow dots caused by the uneven heat can be seen. The fresh lotus leaf pancake is soft, thin and tasty. Rolled up with such a pancake, the crispy and tasty roast duck is so delicious.

Store: Quanjude (Qianmen)

Tel.: 010-67011379

Address: No.30, Qianmen Street, Dongcheng District, Beijing

Tian Xing Ju

Tian Xing Ju was founded in the first year of Emperor Tongzhi’s reign (1862 AD). For over one hundred years, it has inherited the brand, traditions and skills. In the wave of reform and opening-up, it has witnessed public-private joint management, restructuring and transformation, and a vigorous development. Nowadays, Tian Xing Ju is still the first choice of Beijingers to eat Chaogan. That’s because the characteristics of Chaogan here, “delicious liver and intestines”, “rich taste but not greasy”, “proper thickness”, and “eating garlic without seeing garlic”, have never disappeared. Tian Xing Ju, with a history of 157 years, was recognized as the “Beijing Time-honored Brand” by Beijing Municipal Commission of Commerce and Beijing Municipal Administration of Cultural Heritage in 1992; in 2006, it was recognized as the “China’s Time-honored Brand” by the Ministry of Commerce in the first batch; in 2007, the making skills of Tian Xing Ju Chaogan were included in the list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Dongcheng District. As a time-honored brand, Tian Xing Ju has become a business card of the snacks in Beijing with its honest management, excellent quality and unique flavor and has been deeply loved by the consumers.

Having inherited the traditions of over one hundred years and experienced reforms for several times, in the process of group development and operation, Tian Xing Ju, as a time-honored brand and state-owned enterprise, takes “inheriting the traditional culture” as the guideline and is committed to serving the common people and actively responding to the calls of government’s breakfast project in the public interest to create a brand which stands for honesty and convenience with traditional features.

Store: Tian Xing Ju (Xianyukou)

Tel.: 010-67116865

Address: No.81-83, Xianyukou Street, Dongcheng District, Beijing

Wuyutai Tea

Wuyutai Tea, founded in 1887, has a history of more than 130 years. It was in the first batch of “China’s Time-Honored Brands” recognized by the Ministry of Commerce. Furthermore, the skills of making jasmine tea were included in the list of China Intangible Cultural Heritage by the Ministry of Culture. The original name in the board was “Wuyutai Tea House”. During the period of the Republic of China, Wuyutai Tea established a dozens of branches in Beijing and Tianjin, welcoming its first peak of development; during the period of public-private joint management, Wuyutai Tea was nationalized and renamed as “Wuyutai Tea Shop”.

As a century-old store, Wuyutai Tea is devoted to building its brand and channels. Selling the tea at an affordable price is its commitment to consumers. “Maintaining a high quality, creating a new breed and improving the taste” is the brand concept of Wuyutai Tea. Wuyutai Tea is adopting an integrated development of online stores and physical stores, and upgrading and transforming its physical stores. As a result, its market share continues to expand and the number of its shops tops 500 in China. The stores are located in large and medium-sized cities in a dozens of provinces, municipalities and autonomous regions including Beijing, Tianjin, Hebei, Shandong and Inner Mongolia.

In recent years, relying on the professional tea-making experience of over one hundred years, Wuyutai Tea integrates fashion concepts with traditional culture, deeply taps into the spirit of the product, closely connects Chinese tea culture with their products, and carefully creates the product line with flower tea as the core and other seven kinds of tea. Wuyutai Tea is actively exploring the deep-processing of tea and has launched a series of deep-processing products such as tea moon cakes, tea food, tea ice cream, tea gum and so on in succession, managing to achieve the diversification of tea industry. Once the products are launched into the market, they are welcomed by young customers. The values of inheritance and innovation allow Wuyutai Tea, the “China’s time-honored brand”, to maintain its vitality in the competition of the market.

Wuyutai Tea has won many honorary titles several times, including “China’s Top 100 Enterprises in Tea Industry”, “China’s Top Ten Jasmine Tea Brands”, “China’s Outstanding Franchise Brands”, and “Gold Award of Beijing Top Ten Commercial Brands” due to its reassuring quality and caring service.

Store: Wuyutai Tea (Qianmen)

Tel.: 010-67023869

Address: No.4, Qianmen Street, Dongcheng District, Beijing

Laoshe Teahouse

Sitting in the west of Qianmen, Beijing, Laoshe Teahouse was founded in 1988 by Yin Shengxi, and named after Teahouse, a well-known play of the famous writer Lao She. The teahouse consists of a story-telling teahouse, a meal teahouse and a tea ceremony house.

In the teahouse which looks archaic with a strong atmosphere of old Beijing, you can enjoy wonderful performances of Peking Opera, folk art forms, acrobatics, magic, face changing and other national arts. You can also taste a variety of famous tea, palace snacks, traditional Beijing snacks and Beijing cuisine.

Since its inception, Laoshe Teahouse has welcomed some 47 foreign heads of state, a horde of celebrities and over 2 million Chinese and foreign tourists, serving as a window showcasing distinctive national culture products and a bridge bonding the friendship between China and other countries.

Store: Laoshe Teahouse (Qianmen)

Tel.: 010-63036830

Address: Building 3, Zhengyang Market, Qianmen West Street, Xicheng District, Beijing

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