Spring Festival in January 1993 seems now like it was many years ago. I had reached Sanya at the southern tip of Hainan Island. The weather was idyllic, the surroundings so beautiful. I was alone on Dadonghai Beach, that vast stretch of sand sweeping towards Luhuitou Hill. If this was coastal Southern Europe it would be very busy. The area's potential was so obvious, but where were the people? That was 26 years ago and it's a very different scene from today.

While traveling along China's extensive coastline through the mid-1990's such thoughts repeatedly intrigued me. The beauty, the possibilities - but there was then little development. In July 1996 my explorations took in the historic walled town of Shanhaiguan. Part of Qinhuangdao where the Great Wall reaches the sea at "Old Dragon Head" (Lao Long Tou). Again, only a handful of people were present. A few years later I witnessed changes. At Guangxi's coastal Beihai in 1999 the growth in domestic beach tourism was by then becoming significant. Sanya's Yalong Bay by 2001 had been transformed with several international brand hotels locating there.

There were reasons behind the seemingly slow start. The number and length of holidays that were the norm in western countries did not then exist in China and it was a time when most people generally were not affluent. Cultural differences also existed. Many Chinese friends thought it strange that I would walk on a beach in strong sunlight. People tried to avoid sunshine to protect their skin while north Europeans would often flock to the Mediterranean shores of Southern Europe that promised abundant sun. I thought of this recently while heading north from Tianjin towards Qinhuangdao.

Located on the Bohai Gulf, Qinhuangdao sits near Hebei's border with Liaoning province. Twenty-three years after my initial visit I was to discover so much had changed, indeed often for the better! A three-hour road trip, for me as a geographer, proved very interesting. The highway skirted southwestern Bohai, a vast sea area I have developed a growing fascination with. There were extensive areas of marine salt pans, fishing harbors alongside wind turbines and solar energy farms. Nearing my destination the land was green with intensive farming interspersed between compact villages. We were only a few meters above sea level as witnessed by the many water channels. With flat terrain, the quiet country roads appeared perfect for cycling. "Stop the car" I was thinking, "Let me out, I want to cycle!"However I was also desperate to reach the hotel before darkness fell for it was early winter. I knew from the forecast that the beautiful blue skies would be replaced next evening by clouds.

Arriving with an hour to spare, I dumped my bags, rushed down from the hotel's open terrace, past the outdoor pool and summer barbecue facilities, across its wide lawn until reaching a pier stretching above the waters. It reminded of a scene from the UK comedy film "Mr Bean on Holiday" where Bean, played by actor Rowan Atkinson, traveled south through France determined to reach the Mediterranean. The final scene, he rushes into the sea, arms outstretched while singing "La Mer" ("The Sea"). Soon everyone on the beach joins in. I was just like that, standing on that pier, arms outstretched, looking towards the distant horizon, breathing in the Bohai's clean air while singing to myself "La Mer" except I was alone - it was early winter, the peak tourism season over.

The beach was almost deserted and outdoor facilities closed until the following spring. However for those moments as evening fell over the waters crashing onto the sands, I was euphoric. I have retained a lifelong passion for oceans although now living in a large urban center such as Beijing they sadly became distant memories!

Heading back towards the hotel I had time to look around its extensive outdoor facilities, particularly those water-related, while trying to picture the scene during thriving holiday periods. Qinhuangdao has a sandy coastline stretching approximately 28 kilometers. Summer temperatures are mild due to usually gentle offshore winds. The area faces southeast towards where the Bohai merges into the Yellow Sea between Liaoning's Dalian and Shandong's Yantai. There is nothing obstructing clean, stimulating sea air from reaching land.

This area developed tourism later than China's busy southern coasts resulting in what I felt are a new generation of resort

hotels. The sector has matured over the years from the earlier days of headlong rush to develop. Today there is a much greater emphasis on customer satisfaction, on environment, of creating excellent facilities that would entice satisfied clients to return or at least recommend to others. After all, we are in the age of instant sharing images, which can produce positive or negative reactions. I am glad my regular online uploads from Qinhuangdao prompted many pleasing comments - personally I was content having at last reached the sea. To be honest, at that moment I had no wish returning to normal urban life!

The Qinhuangdao Arcadia Seaside Holiday Hotel, my base for three nights, developed partly in response to today's rapid growth of car ownership. Beijing and Tianjin are only three hours drive by road, or under two to nearby Beidaihe by high-speed train. This makes weekend visits a distinct possibility. "You must see the sunrise", I was told. "It is famous!" Next morning, at 5 am, out onto my balcony, the sky was so clear there literally seemed millions of stars above me. At 6 am, as feint traces of dawn were breaking into the black of night, I headed across the park to the pier. I aimed my camera lens directly towards the horizon, gradually capturing each moment as an initially red glow of sun heralded the arrival of daylight.

I was keen to discover how such resort development blends into the local environment. Not only is this a particularly beautiful rea but it lies directly on a bird migration "highway". Flocks move south between colder Siberian winters and warmer east central China. Beidaihe is a mid-route resting point. Thankfully within its entire area, only a section of the hotel's extensive grounds have been developed. Buildings are quite far back from the actual beach, leaving a large area of green in between. Bicycle trails and footpaths led through low hills covered with trees and coastal vegetation.

Bird viewing towers and uniquely designed observatories provide excellent vantage points to watch both the seasonal migrations and local nesting sites. From there I also looked across woodlands towards a caravan park. Actually the first time I had seen this in China and was intrigued. Back in Scotland, my early summer holidays were spent at seaside caravan parks and here was one in coastal Qinhuangdao! Amazing, as was the nearby cafe created from brightly painted shipping containers! There was also a beautiful teahouse with large glass windows providing uninterrupted views of the ocean and all of this within the grounds of a hotel!

The waters were turning stormy, wind building up, waves crashed onto shore as I stood with camera in position to record such moments of nature's force. The sea, the mighty sea, an opportunity to enjoy its magnificence even for just a few minutes!

Nearby was another hotel experience that I am sure must be unique. I admit to being of the generation where I try to avoid

children in hotels, particularly during holidays! This, the Health Valley RoEasy Hotel Beidaihe was designed primarily for families with youngsters of different ages. Rooms, even corridors and elevators were decorated in themes children can identify with. Back in my Scottish homeland, golf courses are regularly found along coasts. I noticed this happening around the resort hotels of Qinhuangdao. I am sure they could appeal both to the growing number of golfing enthusiasts in China and possibly overseas visitors attracted to such top quality greens.

Thirty minutes drive along the coast from my hotel sits Beidaihe, a town I have long wished to visit. Along the highway, as we crossed over the Dapu River Bridge, I asked my driver to stop. Below, the waters were crowded with many wooden fishing vessels. Looking closer I could see crews unloading net sacks filled with shellfish brought up from the seabed that morning. Among all the modernity of 21st century resorts all around, it felt like looking at another age. Indeed even Beidaihe initially was a small coastal fishing village.

During my earlier travels, in the mid-1990's, it was difficult for an individual foreigner to visit or stay at Beidaihe, particularly during mid-summer, when government leaders annually met there. Indeed Beidahe was a place whose name was familiar long before I initially came to China in 1987. Images of both Mao Zedong and Deng Xiaoping bathing in waters off the town's famed beaches remain iconic memories. Today it is open and welcoming to overseas visitors - indeed I noticed many signs in Russian as it remains a popular destination for visitors from Russia.

Beidaihe initially grew as a summer resort after railway connections were established with Tianjin in the late 1890's. For many Europeans in particular, then living in Tianjin or Beijing, it provided an opportunity to escape the sweltering summer heat. Many villas, still present today, date from that period. Indeed with tree-lined streets winding around its low-rise hills or running alongside the beaches it does have a more gentle feel so different from today's contemporary high-rise urban environments. It proved a delight to walk around Laohushi Marine Park where with the sea gently lapped against its rocks and sands making it an instantly recognizable destination. It remains a popular spot for wedding photography. Opposite its entrance stands hotels and restaurants again very Russian or European in style.

Although quiet, the tourists mostly gone, it was a lovely time to drive around Beidaihe. Trees were in autumn golds or orange creating a most beautiful scenic effect. The main urban area of Qinhuangdao felt in contrast to that time, more like a large, modern city. I headed towards the quaintly named Pigeon Park. Located alongside sea marshes and wetlands it remains a popular spot for bird watching, particularly during busy migratory periods. The park was forested with autumnal vibrancy, artificial nests are attached high up in trees potentially to attract birds to establish themselves there. On the ground were human-sized nests specially designed for clambering into and perfect for selfie taking.

Before returning to my hotel I stopped at Beidaihe Artist Village. Formerly a traditional northeastern Hebei village and still home to some farmers, many courtyards have been converted into workshops, studios or unique small hotels. Heading eventually towards Tianjin I recalled the previous few days while realizing there remained so much still to experience both in and around Qinhuangdao. However I would be happy simply to return and stand on the wooden pier, watching again that magnificent sunrise over the Bohai Sea.

Nearby was another hotel experience that I am sure must be unique. I admit to being of the generation where I try to avoid

children in hotels, particularly during holidays! This, the Health Valley RoEasy Hotel Beidaihe was designed primarily for families with youngsters of different ages. Rooms, even corridors and elevators were decorated in themes children can identify with.

Back in my Scottish homeland, golf courses are regularly found along coasts. I noticed this happening around the resort hotels of Qinhuangdao. I am sure they could appeal both to the growing number of golfing enthusiasts in China and possibly overseas visitors attracted to such top quality greens.

Thirty minutes drive along the coast from my hotel sits Beidaihe, a town I have long wished to visit. Along the highway, as we crossed over the Dapu River Bridge, I asked my driver to stop. Below, the waters were crowded with many wooden fishing vessels. Looking closer I could see crews unloading net sacks filled with shellfish brought up from the seabed that morning. Among all the modernity of 21st century resorts all around, it felt like looking at another age. Indeed even Beidaihe initially was a small coastal fishing village.

During my earlier travels, in the mid-1990's, it was difficult for an individual foreigner to visit or stay at Beidaihe, particularly during mid-summer, when government leaders annually met there. Indeed Beidaihe was a place whose name was familiar long before I initially came to China in 1987. Images of both Mao Zedong and Deng Xiaoping bathing in waters off the town's famed beaches remain iconic memories. Today it is open and welcoming to overseas visitors - indeed I noticed many signs in Russian as it remains a popular destination for visitors from Russia.

Beidaihe initially grew as a summer resort after railway connections were established with Tianjin in the late 1890's. For many Europeans in particular, then living in Tianjin or Beijing, it provided an opportunity to escape the sweltering summer heat. Many villas, still present today, date from that period. Indeed with tree-lined streets winding around its low-rise hills or running alongside the beaches it does have a more gentle feel so different from today's contemporary high-rise urban environments.

It proved a delight to walk around Laohushi Marine Park where with the sea gently lapped against its rocks and sands making it an instantly recognizable destination. It remains a popular spot for wedding photography. Opposite its entrance stands hotels and restaurants again very Russian or European in style. Although quiet, the tourists mostly gone, it was a lovely time to drive around Beidaihe. Trees were in autumn golds or orange creating a most beautiful scenic effect.

The main urban area of Qinhuangdao felt in contrast to that time, more like a large, modern city. I headed towards the quaintly named Pigeon Park. Located alongside sea marshes and wetlands it remains a popular spot for bird watching, particularly during busy migratory periods. The park was forested with autumnal vibrancy, artificial nests are attached high up in trees potentially to attract birds to establish themselves there. On the ground were human-sized nests specially designed for clambering into and perfect for selfie taking.

Before returning to my hotel I stopped at Beidaihe Artist Village. Formerly a traditional northeastern Hebei village and still home to some farmers, many courtyards have been converted into workshops, studios or unique small hotels. Heading eventually towards Tianjin I recalled the previous few days while realizing there remained so much still to experience both in and around Qinhuangdao. However I would be happy simply to return and stand on the wooden pier, watching again that magnificent sunrise over the Bohai Sea.