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Travel in Beijing in 144 Hours: Hutong Tour

2019-08-13

For Beijing, hutong is not only the vein of this city, but also the living place of old Beijingers. As time went by, it has become an important arena to witness the development and evolution of Beijing’s history and culture. So, take a stroll around these omnipresent lanes to follow the historic footprints, explore the characterful shops and listen to the secret stories. Believe me, a trip to Beijing’s hutong will make you soak up this city’s culture and presence.

Route I: Yandaixiejie - Shichahai

Yandaixiejie (Yandai Bypass)

Yandaixiejie is a high street steeped in traditional culture. 232m long from northeast to southwest, it stretches from Di’anmen Outer Street in the east. Better yet, if you step out of it from the southwest mouth and turn around a corner, “Mountain Viewing at Yinding Bridge”, one of Yanjing’s eight small sceneries, will jump to the eye. Anecdotally, to the north of the street’s east mouth sat a tobacco pipe shop in front of which stood a tobacco-pipe-shaped wooden shopsign. About person high and bowl wide, this golden shop sign with red silk fringe struck the eye from a distance. So, this street takes its name as Yandaixiejie till today.

From the late Qing Dynasty to around 1920s or 1930s, this street was specialized in tobacco pipes such as long-stemmed Chinese pipe and water pipe, as well as antiques, books and paintings, mounting paintings, stationery, local snacks and all kinds of services. As to architecture, it features an understated decor with elements of Beijing’s north city. As a quiet famous cultural street in Beijing’s North City, it ever bore witness to the visits of many cultural figures.

Now, like many other well-known scenic spots such as Gulou and Nanluoguxiang, Yandaixiejie has been a stomping ground for Beijingers who like gastronomic delights, antiques, books, paintings or ancient buildings.

Address: Di’anmenwai Street, Xicheng District 西城区地安门外大街

Subway Traffic: take Subway Line 2 and get off at Guloudajie Station or take Subway Line 6 and get off at Nanluoguxiang Station or Beihaibei Station

Shichahai

Shichahai is a historical and cultural tourism scenic spot in Beijing. Covering a water area of 336,000m2 which abuts against Zhongnanhai, Shichahai is the only open scenic spot with a wide expanse of water in inner city, and also the largest historical block with the best-preserved landscapes, earning a unique position in the planning and construction history of Beijing.

It consists of Qianhai (Front Lake), Houhai (Rear Lake), Xihai (Western Lake, also known as Jishuitan), that comprise the Three Rear Lakes which echoes the Three Front Lakes. Shichahai literally means “the lake of ten temples” as it was surrounded by ten Buddhist temples. Among wonderful sceneries of Beijing, it is famous as a mecca for people to have fun and escape hot summer since the Qing Dynasty. Many ancient buildings in Shichahai Scenic Area play an important role in the history of urban construction and the political and cultural history in Beijing, mainly represented by the Prince Kung’s Mansion, the Former Residence of Soong Ching Ling, the Prince Chun’s Mansion, the Memorial Hall of Guo Moruo, Bell and Drum Towers, Deshengmen Embrasure Watchtower, Guanghua Temple, Huitong Temple, and Huixian Hall.

Address: Yangfang Hutong, Xicheng District 西城区羊房胡同

Traffic Guide: take Subway Line 6 and get off at the Exit B of Beihai North Station, and then walk to the destination

  • Route 2: Juer Hutong - Nanluoguxiang - Beiluoguxiang - Mao’er Hutong

Ju’er Hutong

Ju’er Hutong borders Jiaodaokou South Street of Dongcheng District to the east and connects Nanluoguxiang in the west. In this hutong, the Yards 3, 5 and 7 have been the residences of Ronglu, an official of the Qing Dynasty. The south-north alley has a total length of around 800m, with 8 hutongs respectively orderly flanked on the east and west.

In recent years, more and more bars and fashion shops have started to open up on this old alley, turning it another bar street in Beijing after Sanlitun and Shichahai.

Nanluoguxiang

Located around Jiaodaokou, the east side of the central axis of Beijing, the alley itself is 787m long and 8m wide, running from East Gulou Street in the north to Ping’an Street in the south. As it was built when the Great Capital of the Yuan Dynasty was completed, it has been recognized as one of the oldest streets in Beijing. Compared with the royal culture characterized by red walls and gold tiles, old hutongs, quadrangle courtyards, green trees, ashen walls, and gray tiles here are a vivid reflection of folk colors.

For the past few years, Nanluoguxiang has become the most lively and stylish among all hutongs in Beijing, with chic shops, exquisite and faddish diners, and ancient alleys of the Yuan Dynasty. The perfect blend of Chinese and Western cultures has revived here, attracting tourists from all over the world.

Address: Di’anmen East Street, Dongcheng District 东城区地安门东大街

Traffic guide: take Subway Line 6 and get off at Nanluoguxiang Station

Beiluoguxiang

Although the Nanluoguxiang enjoys widespread publicity, many tourists may know little about Beiluoguxiang. Beiluoguxiang is a north-south alley located in the west side of Andingmen Inner Street. It starts from Andingmen West Street in the north and ends at Gulou East Street in the south, with a length of 866m and a width of 7m. As yet an tranquil alley with countless interesting people and stores, it is tranquil and livable. If you want to keep away from the crowds on Nanluoguxiang and Gulou Street, just come and take a stroll around Beiluoguxiang to enjoy your leisure time.

Address: Beiluoguxiang, Xicheng District 西城区北锣鼓巷

Traffic guide: take Subway Line 8 and get off at the Exit F at the Gulou Street Station, and then walk to the destination

Mao’er Hutong

Situated in the northwest of Dongcheng District, Mao’er Hutong links Nanluoguxiang in the east and connects Di’anmen Outer Street in the west. Before known as the Mao’er Hutong in Qing Dynasty, it was the place where Zitong Temple and Wenchang Palace were located during the Ming Dynasty. Wenchang Palace was used to consecrate Emperor Wenchang, the Star of Wisdom and a deity of the literary according to Chinese myths and legends. Now, on the site of Wenchang Palace, the Mao’er Hutong Primary School stands. The Yards 9 and 11 in Mao’er Hutong constitute the Keyuan Garden, one of the most representative private gardens in Beijing. The Yards 35 and 37 are the former residences of Wanrong, the last empress of the Qing Dynasty. In addition to Wanrong, this hutong also was home to lots of celebrities, such as Hong Chengchou, a general in the Ming Dynasty, and Feng Guozhang, a key Beiyang Army general in early republican China.

Address: northwest of Dongcheng District 东城区西北部

Traffic guide: take Subway Line 6 and get off at the Nanluoguxiang Station

  • Route 3: Hutongs with Records Kept in the History

Lingjing Hutong - Broadest Hutong in Beijing

Lingjing Hutong is an east-west hutong in the Xidan area of Beijing. It runs from Fuyou Street in the east to Xidan North Street, a famous commercial street, in the west, crossing Zaolin Yard, West Huangchenggen South Street, Dongxie Street, Xinjian Hutong, and Beiyin Hutong. Nowadays, it is 32.18m wide at the broadest point after being widened.

Address: the intersection of Lingjing Hutong and Xidan North Street, Xicheng District 西城区西单北大街与灵境胡同交口

Dashilan Qianshi Hutong, the Slimmest Hutong in Beijing

Qianshi Hutong is located in the west side of Zhubaoshi Street, close to Dashilan. It is 55m long in total, but only 0.7m wide on average, and 0.4m wide at the narrowest part where two people have to walk face to face to get through.

In this narrow alley, there are nine  building complexes stretching from the north and south, with a courtyard at the end. Together with sheds and stores, it was a “market” in the Qing Dynasty for silver and real-money trade, which formed the embryo of the early financial market.

Address: No. 1, Qianshi Hutong, near the Xizhimen Subway Station, Xicheng District 西城区西直门地铁旁大钱市胡同1号

Dongjiaomin Alley - Longest Hutong in Beijing

When it comes to Beijing Hutong, many people would be impressed by gray walls, black tiles, and ancient courtyards. However, as the longest hutong in Beijing with a length of around 1.6km, Dongjiaomin Alley boasts a large number of Western-style architectures, carving an indelible mark on the history of modern China.

Dongjiaomin Alley is located in the central Dongcheng District, starting at Chongwenmen Inner Street in the east and reaching Tian’anmen Square East Road in the west. With Xijiaomin Alley, it stretches nearly 3km in total.

Address: Dongjiaomin Alley, Dongcheng District 东城区东交民巷

Traffic guide: take Subway Line 2 and get off at Qianmen Station

Yichi Alley - Shortest Hutong in Beijing

Yichi Alley is seated in the southeast of the east entrance of Liulichang East Street, winding from the east entrance of Tongzi Hutong to the north entrance of Yingtao Hutong. Among the existing 114 hutongs in the Dashilan block that still retain the style of the late Ming and early Qing Dynasties, Yichi Alley represents the western section of Yangmeizhu Bypass in the Dashilan historical and cultural block that links with the Liulichang East Street.

Address: Yangmeizhu Bypass 杨梅竹斜街

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