You know that line from The Rime of the Ancient Mariner, ‘Water, water everywhere, nor any drop to drink’? That’s what it’s like being a Korean-food lover in Beijing, where almost any authentic, barbecue-less eatery worth its weight in kimchi requires a trip far out to the enclaves of Wangjing or Wudaoku. This is why we were a bit sceptical about Jubang, the new Korean joint focused on ‘street food and traditional fare’ that set up in Sanlitun’s Nali Patio. Would it be just another overpriced barbecue joint? Or flashy fusion aimed at deep-pocketed foreigners?

Our worries dissolved as soon as Jubang’s owner approached us in her bright, clean dining room. She claimed her venue had already become a favourite among Koreans seeking authentic anju, traditional drinking snacks. But non-pandering authenticity comes at a cost: even for seasoned foodies, the English menu is disorienting, with a bevy of options jammed onto one page. Mains are divided into ‘mixed grill’, ‘fried’, ‘steamed’ and ‘rice dishes’; ‘appetisers’ and ‘accompaniments’ cover anju; and ‘side dishes’ encompasses the typical panchan. While the usually free panchan costs here – even the kimchi– it’s all well worth the price, from the chewy pile of anchovies to the tangy, toothsome shredded dried squid.

The kitchen takes the same meticulous approach to its mains: its bibimbap trades in the common crackling-hot stone bowl approach for a porcelain dish of lukewarm rice, artistically decked out with delicately sautéed vegetables. Grill specialties like the pork belly are served sizzling on an iron pan with a traditional assortment of raw greens and salty soy paste. While you’re denied the pleasure (or liability) of grilling it yourself, the trade off is perfectly browned medallions of slightly fatty pork. We only wish portions were more generous.

The drinks menu offers old-school makgeolli, a sweet, milky rice wine at a bargain 85RMB per pot, while pitchers of soju-and-fruit-juice cocktails cost 60RMB. If you’re feeling extravagant, pair these with some of the delicious-but-pricey anju, like the slightly yielding stir-fried baby octopus draped in sweet red sauce, or the incredibly light seafood pancake that mixes egg, shredded vegetables and chunks of squid.

Address: Third Floor, 81 Sanlitun Lu, C308, Nali Patio, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园C308

Source: timeoutbeijing.com