The upper floors at Sanlitun’s new Topwin Mall are inundated with fastcasual hipness on a larger scale, but it’s the basement food court that first demanded our attention thanks to Niku Nyukun, a Japanese eatery specialising in grilled cuts of Wagyu beef on rice and noodles.

Simplicity reigns supreme here, from the menu to the communal table. Niku Nyukun slings an upmarket version of what we might consider in Beijing rou gaifan (humble meat on rice), but here the yakiniku donburi, as grilled meat on rice is called in Japan, features quality cuts of beef, fluffy Japanese rice and minimal seasoning to allow the beef flavour to prevail. The bowls are pricey, particularly for a low-key lunch option – 100RMB can buy a three course sit-down lunch elsewhere in Sanlitun, but at Niku Nyukun you’re looking at a lonely bowl.

The signature grilled wagyu rice bowl (heniu shengfu wuhua dong, 和牛胜负五花) is a worthy indulgence. The sliced beef is grilled to order and perfectly tender – some sliced welsh onion and a squeeze of fresh lime is all the seasoning required. Thick cuts of rib eye and sautéed sliced pork versions are also available, but we stick with the classic.

The beef is not of the highest provenance – the namesake wagyu breeds of Japan are thousands of RMB per kilo, after all – but Niku Nyukun offers an accessible way to enjoy a taste of the world’s best beef and rice.

Address: B1-8, Topwin Center 1, Sanlitun Nan Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南三里屯路1号通盈中心, B1-8

Source: timeoutbeijing.com