Anyone who’s ever shopped in the cavernous, terminally empty Sanlitun Soho is already well versed in disappointment. Sadly, the newest addition to the mall doesn’t buck the trend. While traipsing around the sunken walkways, a new branch of NBeer – the popular and much-loved Ping’an Li brewpub – should be a welcome respite of fantastic craft beer and decent pub grub. Unfortunately, the new branch misses the mark on both counts. It may very well look the part, but looks can be deceptive.

Peering in through the huge glass façade, all the pieces appear to be in place – exposed brick walls, arrangements of beer glasses proudly emblazoned with ‘NBeer’, even pressed steel furniture and old-timey blown-glass light blubs. But, like its Sanlitun Soho home, the new NBeer is mostly for show – a hollow shell of an idea that has yet to fully form. But heck, they built it anyway.

The lone bartender recommends the Summer IPA. Though light with a fruity bitterness, it lacks the developed flavours we’ve come to enjoy from Beijing’s more experienced brewers. The Niubi wheat beer is an utter let down – a Chinese slang misnomer if ever there was one.

While the beer here is a work in progress, showing some signs of coming into its own, the food is a complete afterthought. French fries arrived cold after a ten-minute wait, even though the place was deserted (on a Saturday night). The chicken wings were good, if a bit tough and wanting more sauce.

NBeer is a good analogue for a fair portion of the Beijing food and drink scene – the cosmetic elements are all in place, but in the hurry to assemble the appearance of a solid brewpub, much has been overlooked. Hopefully the pieces will fall into place soon, or the abyss that is Sanlitun Soho will claim yet another victim.

Address: B1, Tower 6, Sanlitun Soho, 8 Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体北路8号三里屯SOHO6号楼B1

Source: timeoutbeijing.com