What’s so wonderful about a hutong space? Some have a sense of forgotten grandeur, sure, but the best courtyards simply make you feel like you’re a welcome guest. Soup Kitchen does this perfectly.

Start with any two of a selection of four appetisers. For us, the bowl of preserved quail eggs was the standout. The dish combines the richness of a quail egg with the interesting notes of traditional, fermented century eggs, topped with shavings of intense ginger. It shared a plate with a short stack of lotus root slices, each piece dyed deep purple from its blueberry glaze. The fruity intonation works with the crunchy texture of the root, resulting in a sweet treat that’s equally palate cleansing.

Service is spotty, especially considering the dollhouse size of the restaurant – we were compelled to take the initiative when pouring water. But the one waitress posted to the entire joint promptly delivered our bowl of purple rice, as healthy as it is vibrantly coloured, and paired with the small clay pot of succulent beef brisket– slices of tender meat immersed in a tomato glaze. The centrepiece is the baked flatfish: an entire fish cooked simply, lightly seasoned with blanched garlic and butter.

Things end modestly with a slice of unflavoured, creamy cheesecake that ticks all the right boxes. The thick slab has a crumbly crust and a velvety, smooth filling. Soup Kitchen succeeds in making us feel welcome when we first walk in, but there’s also plenty here to make us want to come back for more.

Address: 29 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区五道营胡同29号