The menu starts with Neapolitan fritti, and it’s a very good beginning indeed. The polpettine ascolana are beef and pork meatballs mixed with chopped olives, rolled in semolina and then fried. These hot, crisp bites are good, but don’t match the excellence to come.

Choosing your pizza is actually diffcult and an annoying delay in satiating your hunger. Pizzas come in three diameters and are no bargain when you supersize. The glorious and unpretentious margherita becomes spicy margherita when given a toss of peppery arugula.

The pulcinella ventaglio is an ode to prosciutto, stretched to the shape of the venerably cured ham hock, complete with a ‘handle’ wrapped in prosciutto and topped with cherry tomatoes and more arugula. The smaller end is stuffed with fresh creamy ricotta that’s worth fghting for.

The ‘classico STG’ is ‘specially guaranteed by the Naples pizza chef association’and something like a stromboli, a ruler-shaped pie stuffed with mozzarella that’s fred in the oven, then topped with fresh tomatoes, grated parmesan, even more arugula, and translucent pale slices of prosciutto draped over the top. (There’s a vegetarian version too). The crust has just enough chew and holds a smoky favour that is the perfect marriage.

Desserts are mixed. Profteroles can get crusty looking and the tiramisu can appear ‘tiramisoaked’, but crostata and Italian cheesecakes are golden. Ask Luca what he’d have and you’ll be in expert hands.

Address: 3.3 Mall, 33 Sanlitun Lu, Sanlitun, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路33号3.3服装大厦西北角底商

Source: timeoutbeijing.com