Located on a little alley with increasing claims to call itself ‘Little Tokyo’ is the second edition of Geba Geba. Potted evergreens line a wooden deck but, as summer’s climax nears, air-conditioned indoors are preferred. Geba Geba's interior provides a relaxing space to dine; during our visits, groups of wives are seen huddled in solidarity. The front room sweeps into a sushi bar, with counter seating offering a view of the masters busy at their art, while big-band jazz and J-pop livens up the atmosphere.

The menu is filled with plenty beyond sushi. An amuse bouche of delicate mizuna (or potherb mustard) greets palates. The Kyoto-style tofu is an entertaining twist on agedashi tofu; it arrives in two batter-encrusted globes of bacon slivers and tofu, and, within its wakame-seaweed nuclei, it packs quite a punch. This earthly delight offers one strata of surprise after another.

If you’re a traditionalist, some things might appal, but if you love Japanese curry and pork tonkatsu, order the Geba Geba's pork curry cheese roll. Each cut is garnished with a bulb of pickled onion that offsets the heaviness of fried pork and rice.

Overall the food at Geba Geba is good, but a few dishes weigh heavily on the sweet side. Both the mushrooms baked in foil and the popular beef-steak fillet swim in overly sweet miso and keep the servers returning to refill tea. Despite all the sugar, the complimentary desserts are something to anticipate. On one visit, our palates are enveloped by spoonfuls of pumpkin pudding, and on the next, an almond tofu pudding as sensual as a panna cotta.

Geba Geba is blooming into the right balance of sweet and savoury. So far, they woo with innovation and service. There are a few details lost in translation, but it’s clear the chef and staff have set their sights on winning you over.

Address: 17 Xinyuan Xili Dong Jie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区新源西里东街17号

Source: timeoutbeijing.com