With sleek stainless steel accents, white tiled walls and a soft electric glow emanating from baubles of frosted glass, Fiume is a marked departure from the hushed earthy tones of secluded hutong trattoria Mercante. Floor-to-ceiling windows offer a panorama overlooking the Liangma River, and make for an open, modern vista in contrast with the Old World feel of Mercante’s rustic furniture and back-alley location. Thankfully, the home-style Italian dishes and authentic favours that put Mercante on the map have survived the journey–and have found new life in the more spacious and contemporary setting.
The menu is simple and focused–offerings are divided into antipasti, primi, secondi and dolce. The courses have been masterfully crafted to complement each other, and, as they’re a little on the small side, do as the Italians do and order one or two from each section.
The cold cut platter, including a 24-month Parmigiano Reggiano, offers hand-cut ham marbled with buttery fat, hints of hazelnut and with a salty smooth fnish, alongside salami with hard, nutty Parmesan fnishes with a mild peppery spice.
The baccala – pieces of salted cod that have been soaked in milk, battered and fried–really steal the frst act. As hardened fsh and chip enthusiasts, we were sceptical about the salte nature of our beloved cod. Sometimes it’s good to be wrong–the fesh is toothsome and chewy while the crisp golden batter locks in a hearty crunch. A side of fresh carrot puree adds an earthiness and cooling affect that softens the fried morsels.
From the primi, the potato gnocchi with boar in porcini ragu offers chewy nuggets of starchy pasta blanketed in blood-red sauce – prepare for the silence induced only by moments of true pasta nirvana. Sweet tomato, savoury boar and nutty porcini washed down with a sip of Sicilian La Segreta are a bacchanalian delight. The triangoli with stewed donkey will keep you talking through to the end of the bottle. The mild favour of tender donkey pairs surprisingly well with the fresh pasta.
Address: 39 Maizidian Xijie (on the river at the back of FX Hotel), Chaoyang District 朝阳区麦子店西街39号
Source: timeoutbeijing.com
