Detroit-style pizza was born in what was once a blind pig. Now that we’ve got things off to a wholly unappetising start, allow us to explain. We don’t mean a sightless porker whose vision has since been miraculously restored: in Prohibition-era Detroit, a ‘blind pig’ was a speakeasy. And Gus Guerra’s setup, ‘Buddy’s Rendezvous,’ did a brisk bit of business.

The sensation of chewing Detroit-style pizza is intensely satisfying. It gets all of your teeth involved. Crunch through the crispy outer layer of crust with those incisors and canines and then masticate away at the chewy centre with your molars. Oozy cheese and generous dollops of thick sauce tie everything together.

If there’s one thing holding Pie Squared’s pizzas back, it’s the mixed quality of the toppings. When we ate the flavourless crumbles of sausage on The Supreme, we couldn’t help but get the feeling they came from a plastic bag. Pepperoni and ham toppings fare better. The hefty meat boulders on the Motown Meatball variety are a combo of pork, ground beef, Parmesan and fresh herbs that would win us over were they not quite so mushy.

Breadsticks are a headscratcher. Yes, Pie Squared has succeeded in creating what are indisputably sticks of bread, just as the name describes. But why not provide additional flavour? They’re supposedly topped with garlic and Parmesan, but those ingredients aren’t terribly detectable. As an alternative, try the ‘hot’ chicken wings, the best of the three flavours on offer (the other two being ‘regular’ and ‘BBQ’). Don’t let the name deter you: these wings are far from scorching, and the little heat can be further tempered with a side of ranch dressing.

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Source: timeoutbeijing.com