As more traditional Beijing neighbourhoods meet the bulldozer, tranquil courtyard spaces are sadly becoming more of a rarity. But then, nothing about Mulu is commonplace. The converted siheyuan is a two room stage for a pageant of fusion cuisine. The aesthetic is faithful to its surroundings; Chinoiserie décor, impressive calligraphy on the walls and a large Qing-dynasty wooden table at the centre of it all. Upstairs is a Japanese-inspired room with tatami mats, a Zen ambiance and, for the warmer months, a large roof deck overlooking the surrounding Dongsi hutongs.
In the kitchen are two chefs previously of the Westin Chaoyang, who say they are enjoying the opportunity to be creative with their plates and venture away from the more prescriptive à la carte menus of a hotel. But it was the impeccable hospitality of Swiss manager Arthur Stehli de l’Estoile that made our night. His refi ned service was among some of the best we’ve ever experienced: surreptitiously topping up wine without breaking diners’ conversation one minute, knowledgeably and entertainingly introducing dishes the next.
By the time you read this, the menu will have updated several times, but the commitment to well-sourced ingredients presented as tried-and-true dishes–often with playful touches – will doubtlessly remain. On the night we visited, the amuse-bouche–a dab of smooth chicken curry atop a slice of soft baguette–was representative of this willingness to be different without flying off the handle.
The starter, a foamy white bean cappuccino soup – dotted with flecks of parma ham – was an outand- out winner. Other dishes take Asian influences, such as the crisp snow peas with slices of preserved sausage, and dragon beans with a smoky-spicy sambal sauce. Even the upscale dishes feel reassuringly down-to-earth and stripped-down. The rich foie gras is simply paired with crunchy romaine lettuce, and a de-shelled lobster is served baked in cheese.
Address: 7 Xinsi Hutong, Dongsi Shiertiao, Dongcheng District 东直门东四十二辛寺胡同7号
Source: timeoutbeijing.com
