Rong Xiaoguan, a new brand from Xin Rongji, the Time Out award-winning eatery on the upper floors of the Yin Tai Centre, is bringing the highbrow quality of its fine dining mainstay to the subterranean halls of the same building to cater for the working lunch crowd.

The offerings are less delicacy-centric than those found on the white tablecloths upstairs. What remains is similar quality cuisine in a smart but casual setting. Weekday lunch comes with a short wait, but the rustic-chic décor conceals ample seating to accommodate the slew of midday diners who crowd the lower halls of Yin Tai in search of a good, fast and cheap meal.

After a short wait for our table, a server stands to attention the moment the spine of the menu is cracked, firing off a handful of suggestions. After perusing the compact menu at lightening speed, we order and are on our way in less than ten minutes.

A deep fried suckling pigeon arrives first. The skin is crispy and sweet, and the gamey flesh, although a spot of work to pry from the tiny bones, is a moist, savoury treat. A bowl of cold cherry tomatoes in lemon juice offsets the richness of the pigeon fat, while a clay pot of ‘mustard green bulbs’ are tossed to the tune of their own sizzle tableside. The crisp veggies, with a peppery bitterness, are warmed just through and served in a largely raw state; whole cloves of roast garlic soften the blow.

Address: F1-B50-51, Beijing Yintai Centre, 2 Jiangguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街2号银泰中心F1-B50-51号

Source: timeoutbeijing.com