You’d expect a showdown after Bornga moseyed into Shuangjing, setting up right on top of another popular Korean eatery–the perennially packed Iki. Whether or not it’ll be tongs at dawn, what’s clear is that the latest branch of the international barbeque chain, headed by the famed Korean celebrity chef Joon Won Paik, significantly ups the grilling ante.

The setting is workmanlike, relying on touches like dividers adorned with roof tiles to break up the monotony. Tack on the perfunctory, robotic service and the roaring, robust space kind of feels like it’s going through the motions. But when it comes to the food itself, Bornga dazzles–not least because of its huge selection of free side dishes. Even on the sizeable tables, organising the placement of your main dishes after the complimentary veggies and condiments arrive is like playing Tetris on the hard setting. A parade of pickles, slightly sweet soups, refreshing salads and more keep on coming through the meal like it is Mardi Gras.

Bornga also offers a great variety of pancakes if you can muster the appetite after your meat feast. We couldn’t resist the variety stuffed with squid and kimchi. The preserved cabbage was milder and less spicy than we’d hoped for, but the crispy squid – daubed in a dark, vinegary dip – was enough to compensate.

The no-nonsense approach to bare-bones Korean dining is enjoyable, so long as you don’t arrive expecting to be wooed by genteel surroundings and service. Such fripperies would get in the way of the gluttony, anyhow.

Address: Shuanghuayuan Nanli, Chaoyang District 朝阳区双花园南里3区2层

Source: timeoutbeijing.com