Atmosphere comes first at Dao Jia Chang (Come and Taste Home) at the Dongsishitiao. Service comes at top volume, and not just because the restaurant is heaving with loud customers.

A spin-off from Dao Jia Chang in the northern Beijing's Xibahe, the restaurant is beautifully done out in olde worlde fashion, with the clean lines and simple decoration characteristic of Chinese design before it all went horribly wrong at the fag-end of the Qing dynasty.

Your party's number is yelled out as you come through the door, and from then on no element of service is delivered with anything other than a boisterous cry. Even plates are clattered with a satisfying contempt for gentility. Order any of the variations on zha jiang mian, and a machine-gun rattle of small dishes ensues as the meat and vegetables of your choice are thrown into the bowl of heavy flour noodles.

If you stick to Old Beijing selections (some generic homestyle fare is also on offer), the food is simple, sometimes rather odd, and almost certainly not spicy. With one exception - the wonderful ink fish with scallion and hot chillis. Easily the best dish of my visit, it's a terrific combination of pungent flavors.

Source: expatsinchina.com