Few would argue that Modernista and Salud have Gulou’s twin cash cows of hipsters and Eurotrash gripped firmly in their tapas-scented claws. Breaking that monopoly would require a priest, chicken blood and the ghost of Charlie ‘Bird’ Parker. So setting up a new hutong tapas bar a stone’s throw away might not seem wise. But Mas (meaning ‘more’) and its quartet of owners may well have more (‘mas’) than an ace up their respective sleeves.

Mas is slap-bang between Dongzhimen and Gulou, an area seriously lacking in serviceable bars – we’re talking a desert here; Daffy Duck slaking his thirst on fantasy booze mirages. Secondly, it’s got a niche: decent cocktails, a pretty cheap house wine by the glass and precious little beer. Given its nearest rival is the chilly Siberian bear hug of White Nights and its ten varieties of Baltika, a pinch of ambition goes a long way.

For food, its mostly tapas and some Cuban classics. The fist-sized fish tacos are creamy, rich and devilishly moreish. The pork tacos are just as mouth-moistening, and slightly heavier on the stomach. The pressed Cuban sandwich is sufficiently rustic: there’s a slight hint of mustard between the ham, pork and cheese.

Address: 25 Beixinqiao Toutiao, off Dongzhimen Neijie, Dongcheng District 东城区北新桥头条胡同25号近东直门内街

Source: timeoutbeijing.com