Hacker-Pschorr, the newest addition to Beijing’s collection of brauhauses, stretches far beneath the subterranean recess of Xindong Lu. The space includes areas that positively sing of Oktoberfest. An impressive stage, polished brass kegs, chandeliers of glimmering beer steins and wraparound bar counters look strangely naked in all their pristine splendour, but its clear this place was built for crowds.

The menu is likewise suited for a small army. Pages of hefty platters span the gamut of brauhaus essentials. From Munich white sausages to roast pork knuckles, breaded schnitzel, dark beer sauce and bright red pickled cabbage. After following our lederhosen-clad host to a center table, we loosen our belts and settle in for a properly heavy meal.

The menu is well suited to large groups, with the platters deserving most of the attention. Roasting pans laden with thick slices of roast pork, pork knuckles, slabs of meatloaf crowned with a fried egg, a variety of sausages and even roast chicken come in full and half portions. The pork is dry, but salvaged by a healthy dose of thick dark beer sauce and sharp mustard, while the sausages go down well with a stein of their house-brewed unfltered wheat beer.

The breadbasket, although joined by mini crocks of yellow butter, pâté and pork fat, is an utter let-down. Cold, tough and dry, the pretzel is an affront to the German people. The shiny open spaces and overall warmth of the place win us over in the end. The beer is decent, the food passable and the service less than perfect – but for an evening of old- school Bavarian debauchery, Hacker delivers.

Address: 12 Xindong Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区新东路12号院3号楼3门

Source: timeoutbeijing.com