The new Mosto is all about sophisticated funk – the soundtrack, the smart neon design behind the bar and a reworked lounge area reinvigorate an atmosphere that had lost its lustre.

The new menu is cheaper and altogether it lends itself to the hip new feel. It’s more accessible and shareable now. Rather than ‘to start’, ‘to follow’, ‘to finish’ (as before), dishes are divided by category – soups, salads, mains, meats. From the small plates, the salmon sashimi has a distinctly Chinese flair, with fresh cucumber, ginger, seaweed salad and a sweet soy dressing. Try not to drain the bowl. The foie gras and saffron risotto is as decadent as is sounds. A crisp sear on the liver adds texture to the risotto, though, for us, it could use more saffron and less cheese. The duck confit salad is a lighter and delicious combination of tender roasted duck and fresh greens.

Mains have received less attention in the face-lift; what we had previously enjoyed has thankfully remained untouched. The pastas are still handmade and well prepared – the seafood tortellini in particular is wonderfully toothsome and nutty. The prawns’ flavor and texture shine, but we would prefer a less rich sauce that doesn’t blanket them.

The focus of the overhaul was clearly the Mosto experience as a whole – the atmosphere, the bar, the prices, the menu’s structure – and the team’s efforts have paid off. With a more relaxed menu and across-the-board price reduction, the new Mosto serves up the same great food but is now more affordable, flexible and funkier than ever.Address: Third floor Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯北路81号D308 那里花园Source: timeoutbeijing.com