An offshoot of Tuanjiehu favourite Sake Manzo, Happi Sake quietly opened last year and has been serving up an equally wide array of sake and Japanese cuisine. White pine motifs and a warm yellow glow drifting from overhead clusters of wooden sake cups are as homey as they are boisterous. Toasts in Japanese mingle with an occasional ganbei as the scent of grilled meats, unagi (eel) and salted fish issue from the din in the open kitchen.

The menu at Happi Sake mirrors this intersection of flavour, texture and technique, with standard sushi alongside less common specialities. We start with some lighter cuts of sashimi. Thick cut and fresh, the sea bream, salmon and mackerel are well priced. We balance out the fish with steamed edamame.

Next we opt for the assorted yakitori platter. Seasoned balls of chicken with spring onion, crispy pork belly-wrapped golden mushrooms, charred Wagyu beef and bright red salted prawns arrive piece by piece from the fire the moment they’re done. The mushrooms stand out, but we devour each morsel of perfectly grilled flesh with equal vigour.

The smoked saury has a buttery texture and a mild, smouldering flavor, while the tangy sweet glaze of the grilled unagi marries with the soft white meat and gives the crisp skin an almost candied flavor. The beer-battered chicken took us by surprise – among the best we have ever had, ever. The golden batter locks in moist meat and the clean taste of draft Asahi sings through the tangy, thickened soy sauce.Address: No. 2 Tuanjiehu Beilu Chaoyang District 朝阳区团结湖北路甲2号Source: timeoutbeijing.com