While the high-rise glamour of modern Beijing dominates the skyline, the hutongs are the lifeblood of the city. This network of cramped alleyways courses its way through the capital, and though the courtyard homes are often razed to raise skyscrapers, the neighborhoods still thrive. The single-story imperial architecture plays host to a Beijing that most tourists don’t get to see: a unique mix of long-term residents, migrant workers, and foreigners championing the city’s creativity and tradition. This is the part of town where you’ll be woken by the sound of the knife sharpener starting his day at 6 a.m., just hours after the cocktail bars have cleared out. The hutongs are the real Beijing and an experience unavailable anywhere else. Take a tour of some of the coolest spots.
Capital SpiritBaijiu is an unassuming clear liquor that has a name to match. The translation of “white wine” doesn’t capture the more common sobriquet of Chinese firewater. However, Capital Spirits is here to teach the world about the nuances of the 5,000-year-old spirit and prove there is more to it than the 50 cent shots downed by taxi drivers. Inspired by Derek Sandhaus’s book talk on the spirit, the bar specializes in small-batch and rarer baijiu alongside baijiu-based cocktails and in-house distillations. 3 Daju Hutong, Dongcheng district.
The OrchidTo really experience life in the hutongs you need a place to stay, and the Orchid is the ideal destination. Set back from Baochao Hutong, the boutique hotel has a tranquil rooftop view that invites you to think of a time when China wasn't home to the world’s fastest-growing economy. It also plays host to author Jen Lin-Liu’s Black Sesame Kitchen, an ideal primer for those who want to road-test their palate for traditional Chinese cuisine. If you’re really lucky, co-owner Joel Shuchat will have opened the new Dashilar hutong location and can share his knowledge of Chinese tea. The hotel also holds dumpling-making classes every week. 65 Baochao Hutong, Dongcheng district.
Temple Restaurant BeijingHoused in a former television factory, which also happens to be a restored temple, TRB is one of the last places you might expect to have a world-class dining experience. However, the team of young local staff—led by proprietor Ignace LeCleir, who previously fronted Daniel Boulud’s brief dalliance with Beijing at Maison Boulud—make it possible with their interpretation of contemporary European cuisine. It's an unforgettable experience in the shadows of the Forbidden City that only improves if it coincides with a visit by one of their frequent guest chefs.
Source: cntraveler.com
