Dumplings are special. Their global ubiquity and the ease with which they transcend cultural boundaries grants them an important role in the culinary lives of old Beijingers and foreign newbies alike. Perhaps this is why we’re hesitant to accept any attempt to exploit the natural inclination of all peoples towards balls of meat wrapped in dough. Some say the popular dumpling house Mr Shi’s has long straddled the line between honest family joint and profitable novelty, so when news came that a new branch was opening in Sanlitun, we had to ‘ingestigate’.
The space itself is comfortable, with a sense of intimacy afforded by the disjointed corners and retrofitted staircase of Beijing’s crudely repurposed first-floor apartment restaurants. The small kitchen is tucked in a corner, while the bulk of the dumpling wrapping takes place in a semi-exposed workstation in the front room. Dumplings are made to order, so take a peep over the low counter to critique the cook’s form – or, like us, drink cold Yanjing and gape at the speed with which balls of wheaten flour are filled, twisted and thrown in the pot.
In spite of our fears, things look good as we take a seat and pore over the dozen-page menu of dumplings. Naturally, we order as many different fillings as decency permits and get down to business. First come boiled pork and lotus root, followed by fried cheese, pork and aubergine, then back to boiled basil, black pepper, tomato and aubergine. The fillings are fresh, with differing textures and strong flavours that work well in tandem. The boiled skin holds up well despite its delicate appearance. The fried varieties, served piping hot from the skillet, are a glorious golden brown – pleasingly crunchy on the outside, moist and chewy inside.
As we look closer at the scribbles on the wall from satisfied customers and the smiling visage of Mr Shi, sporting a not-so-subtle registered trademark sign, the prices begin to make sense. Although the dumplings are quite good, we can’t see any reason to shell out the dough other than the chance to make your mark on the whitewashed walls. But if we know Sanlitun, that just might be enough.
Address: Sanlitun Xijie, (west of Nearby the Tree) Chaoyang District
Source: timeoutbeijing.com
