You could happily spend the whole day at Ramo. Owner Paca Lee has tricked out the old El Nido Bistro space in a palette of primary colours and gorgeous vintage tiles gleam a soft yellow and blue as light pours in through the tall windows. Light bulbs in geometric cages hang from the ceiling, the windows are trimmed in a vibrant yellow, and, to top it all off, a disco ball dangles in the bathroom.

It’s a fun spot, and we can tell from first glance that this will be a fast Fangjia favourite. Ramo’s an all-day affair where the doors open at 9.30am to the huddled masses of café-dwelling freelancers and hungover hutong trendies in need of a stiff cup of coffee. It’s spacious and airy – the ideal antidote to the overcrowded places a few blocks over on Gulou Dong Dajie. In the evening, when things really get going at Ramo, glass cases display the main event - pizza by the slice.

Go for the Parma ham and rocket (16 RMB slice; 56 RMB whole) where generous slips of meat blanket the surface. The four cheese option (18 RMB slice; 60 RMB whole) arrives as a gooey, primordial soup of mozzarella, white cheddar, blue cheese, and goats’ cheese. The goats’ cheese and rocket is more toned down, but equally delicious. Named after the chef, the Super Yibo (20 RMB slice; 70 RMB whole) appears the most daring on paper. In practice, it almost comes together, but we find ourselves wanting more of the salami and beef sausage it’s flecked with and slightly less of the pungent blue cheese.

Open: 9:30 am - late (kitchen open until 11:00 pm) daily

Tel: 86 10 8403 5004

Add: 64 Fangjia Hutong, Dongcheng District