Dumplings are special. Their global ubiquity and the ease with which they transcend cultural boundaries grants them an important role in the culinary lives of old Beijingers and foreign newbies alike. The popular dumpling house Mr Shi’s has long straddled the line between honest family joint and profitable novelty.

The space itself is comfortable, with a sense of intimacy afforded by the disjointed corners and retrofitted staircase of Beijing’s crudely repurposed first-floor apartment restaurants. The small kitchen is tucked in a corner, while the bulk of the dumpling wrapping takes place in a semi-exposed workstation in the front room.

Dumplings filled with boiled pork and lotus root and fried cheese, pork and aubergine are worth a try. The fillings are fresh, with differing textures and strong flavours that work well in tandem. The boiled skin holds up well despite its delicate appearance. The fried varieties, served piping hot from the skillet, are a glorious golden brown – pleasingly crunchy on the outside, moist and chewy inside.

Address: No 74, Baochao Hutong, Gulou East Street, Dongcheng District

Tel: 010-84050399/13161003826

Opening hours: 9:00 - 24:00

Average cost per person: 61 RMB