The former Malty Dog on Beiluoguxiang has done a quick switch and reemerged as Mama Pizza & Bar, a no-thrills pizza spot run by barman Jeff Ji's better half, Connie Guan, just down the road from Mai Bar.

The restaurant’s lo-fi atmosphere is underscored by posters taped clumsily to the walls, a shabby PA system set up next to the kitchen blaring out random tunes and chairs and tables that look like they were pilfered from a nearby middle school. Its saving grace is a foosball table placed in the middle of the restaurant that provides a great way to pass the time until your pie arrives.

Considering the underwhelming décor, the pizza is surprisingly good. Go for the “Meat Lover” (RMB60), with fresh slices of ham, bacon and pepperoni, plus a light layer of seasoning, all sprinkled onto a thin crust. It would benefit from a bit more tomato sauce, but overall it hits all the right spots.

Mama has a varied selection of beers and cocktails, too. Wash down your pizza with a chilled Brooklyn beer (RMB35) or the more exotic Wells Banana Bread Beer (RMB30). Not only does the cocktail list contain a few curious phallic-minded misspellings of “Coke” for everyone to snigger at, but it also rather charmingly welcomes customers to suggest cocktails that are not already on the list.

The laid back service and informal atmosphere should make this down-to-earth pizza spot popular with Beijing’s hutong hipsters. For those in the area seeking a few brews with friends, Mama is a safe bet.

Address: No. 51, Beiluo Guxiang, Dongcheng District

Tel: 010 - 84083763

Opening hours: 11:00 - deep night

Average cost per person: 57 RMB