If you’re familiar with the Beijing music scene, the elder statesman of rock bars will need no introduction. But, unlike ageing stars, Old What doesn’t tinker with the favorites: This place is small, friendly, and loves to rock out.

The bar is staffed by music-lovers, not mixologists, but the drinks aren’t too bad (mixed drinks 30RMB; a pint of beer 20RMB). On the weekend, Old What gets loud – seminal Beijing bands such as Carsick Cars and Snapline played their first-ever gigs here, and still occasionally drop by the place – and the bar continues to offer its tiny stage to punk, experimental and noise bands every weekend.

But on weekdays, Old What is also the perfect spot for a bit of refreshment in the nearly beerless no man’s land between Tiananmen Square and Jingshan Park.

Open

3pm-12 Mon-Thurs; 3pm-2am Fri-Sat

Telephone 133 4112 2757

English address 72 Bei Chang'an Jie, (west gate of Forbidden City, opposite 161 Middle School), Dongcheng district

Chinese address 西城区北长街72号(故宫西门，161中学对面)